Highlights:

• Atmosphere
• Playa Los Muertos / Los Muertos Beach
• Playa Olas Altas / Olas Altas Beach
• Blue Chairs Beach

Quiet and laid-back, the Zona Romántica seems like a world away from the constant urban bustle on the other side of the Cuale River. Nowadays there's even a small but thriving population of expats who, once they discovered the Zona Romántica, couldn't bear to leave the relaxed atmosphere, the sound of the sea and the charm of a welcoming seaside community.

While many tourists skip right over this lovely part of town, it has a bit of everything: colonial architecture, great restaurants, pretty inns, golden beaches, unique art galleries and much more. Plus, restaurants and accommodations are unique and every bit as good - possibly even better! - as those found north of the river, but without the steep prices aimed at tourists.

The hilly lanes of the Zona Romántica - which you'll find nestled between the Bahía de Banderas shore, the Cuale River and the foothills of the verdant Sierra Madre mountains - are essentially an extension of the Old Town part of downtown Puerto Vallarta which lies just across the river. Remnants of the city's early days as a colonial town are found in the neighborhood's winding cobblestone streets flanked by lovely white stucco houses with their red-tile roof tops. Add in street cafés, art galleries, bars, restaurants and all sorts of shops and marketplaces and it's easy to see why the Zona Romántica is meant for strolling.

Plus, you'll find Puerto Vallarta's two urban beaches in the Zona Romántica: Playa Los Muertos and Playa Olas Altas. Soak up the sun and show off your best doggie-paddle, or continue on south for more stretches of golden sand. You can also hop on the ferry to Yelapa; water taxis heading to Yelapa and other southern destinations leave from the Zona Romántica throughout the day.

At the southern tip of the Playa de los Muertos is a patch of beach nicknamed the "Blue Chairs" - named for its signature blue lounge chairs - where local and foreign gay folks hang out. In fact, it's so popular that a whole new batch of green chairs has been added to the mix. Puerto Vallarta is known as the gay capital of Mexico, and the southern part of the Zona Romántica is brimming with gay and mixed bars, hotels, resorts, nightclubs and other attractions. Diana Tours, which offers all gay and lesbian cruises complete with plenty of food, drink and snorkeling, leaves from the Blue Chairs Resort daily.